Vin Corse
Three wines I drank in Corsica
Those unfamiliar with Corsica may at first expect an island in the south of France to be producing wines of a big, ripe style. Misconceptions commonly equate Corsican terroir with that of the Languedoc or Provence. Therefore, surprise ensues when the wines of this region recollect more famous northern terroirs such as Beaujolais, the Loire and even the coveted Bourgogne. Exploration of the region will reveal its wines to be unique with a pronounced elegance and an allegiance to the overarching old world style of acid preservation. The island’s peaks are only surpassed by Mt. Etna in the Mediterranean, and with a smaller land mass than Sicily, the influence of the sea is more evident. The island’s most famous vineyards tend to be situated equidistant from its mountainous elevations and its Mediterranean coast, its wines characterized by a gathering of this influence. So why then, have the island’s wines remained relatively obscure? The answer to this question, for me, lies only in exposure because the wines from Corsica must be, without a doubt, some of the highest quality for price in the world. French Wine lovers itching for something different, something totally unique: seek out the highly overlooked wines from the island Corsica. Here are one white and two reds I drank on my most recent visit to try without delay:
Domaine de Vaccelli “Granit Blanc” 2019, A.O.P. Ajaccio €42
This 100% Vermentinu is an excellent expression of the Mediterranean varietal on Corsican terroir. Old World wine drinkers know Vermentino as a white varietal widely vinified on Corsica’s southern sister, Sardinia, or as the majoratal grape in blended Provence rosé where it’s known as Rolle. White wine lovers: savor this light-to-medium-bodied wine that presents as floral, even herby with a small amount of weight on the palette in the form of an oily texture, and an expressive citrus acidity. Phenolic bitterness–the principal characteristic of the varietal–is present in all its grapefruit pith glory, while the tropical fruit sometimes present in warmer vintages or from warmer regions is not. To describe the style of the wine, one imagines the vineyard being situated somewhere on the road between Sancerre and Chablis, instead of 600 miles to its south. This accounts for its balance between playful acidic bitterness commonly associated with Sauvignon Blanc and it’s lightly viscose fattiness that we know from Chardonnay. This particular mix can also be present in a Chenin Blanc from Anjou. The wine is named for its soil composition, coming from the highlands surrounding the bay of the island's capital city. Drink on a humid Mediterranean evening with seafood, especially of the fried variety, or pasta in an olive oil sauce.
Clos Signadore 2016, A.O.P. Patrimonio €50
If you’ve ever come across a Corsican wine stateside it was probably from Patrimonio, the most revered wine region on the island by Corsicans and foreigners alike. The region has been called “petit Bourgogne,” or “little Burgundy” due to the similarities in soil composition: a varying mixture heavy in limestone. Furthermore, a red from Patrimonio is almost certainly going to be a Niellucciu, the region and the island’s most famous grape, whether in its purity, or as the star supported slightly with blending grapes. The Clos Signadore 2016 is 100% Niellucciu. Now, purveyors and connoisseurs will usually tell you that Niellucciu (“Nielluccio” in Italian) is the same varietal as Tuscany’s Sangiovese. However when speaking to winemakers and cavists on the island the closeness of the relation is up for debate. That Niellucciu is a descendant of Sangiovese is sure, but the word identical is never used. And in tasting, one clearly notes the hallmarks of Sangiovese, and differences as well–differences driven by terroir and mutations in the vine seem evident. The Clos Signadore bursts with dark fruit, smoke and animal flavors. Woody leather and a round acidity, that is often missing from American, or New World reds for that matter, beg for tender red meat. The presence of roasted tomato that is often found in Brunello is pleasantly missing, making the varietal’s herby minerality more pronounced on this Corsican terroir. Collectors would do well to let even more age reveal what it may, but for me, this wine already surpasses the best Chianti Classico I’ve ever had.
Domaine Zuria “Stintinu” 2019, I.G.P “Île de Beauté” Bonifacio €45
This 100% Sciaccarellu was the gem of my island tasting experience. This varietal, endemic to the island, in a modern, on-trend style that can only be described as the essence of feminine elegance, needs to be discovered now. With a color like watered down cranberry juice it brings a surprising velvety texture, with a warmth that builds, reading as spiced, baked strawberry. Very balanced acidity, lasting on the palette completes it’s angelic grace. Connoisseurs might compare it to certain styles of cru Beaujolais with some age, from Fleurie or Saint-Amour, and it resembles Gamay in the mouth, but sharper, more salivating, and with aromas even more expressive. Floral eucalyptus and maraschino liqueur jump off the tongue. The indication géographique “Île de Beauté” encompasses island-wide vineyards that lie outside of one of the nine appellations, but this wine is labeled with the village Bonifacio–the southernmost point of the island where the climate turns arid. There is the heavy influence of sea air on its gorgeous, rocky cliffs. A wine for those of us who can appreciate the incredible depth a light-bodied style can contain, do not wait to taste this unique varietal from Corsica.
Corsica is an island of fierce, wild beauty and a people conscious and proud of the incredible gift of their heritage. They continue the traditions of their patrimony with importance, producing traditional products of consequence. This can above all be tasted in the glass, where Corsican winemakers will go on in the conviction of their authenticity, with or without recognition from the continent or beyond. As with most precious things, perhaps it is best they remain a secret.